Expedition 10x8000
Dhaulagiri
8.167 meters
Ranking: 7
Altitude: 8.167 m.
Location: 28º 42' N, 83º 30' E. Nepal
First ascent: On 13 May 1960, an Austrian-Swiss expedition led by Max Eiselin took up the reconnoitring done the previous year and put Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Ernst Forrer, Albin Schelbert, Nyima Dorji and Nawang Dorji on the summit.
Peak conquered by Edurne Pasaban on 1 May 2008.
Dhaulagiri
The 'White Mountain', 8,167 meters high, was Edurne’s first challenge in 2008. For 30 years it was considered the highest peak in the world and was first climbed in 1960, when the route was opened that is followed by most expeditions. The mountain that started Pasabán out in Himalayan climbing was crowned by the girl from Guipuzkoa on her third attempt on 1 May 2008.
The name Dhaulagiri comes from the Sanskrit (Dhavala giri) and means "White Mountain". Following its discovery by the Western world in 1808, it was considered the highest peak in the world in the place of Chimborazo, in Ecuador, with its 6,300 meters above sea level, which was then considered the highest elevation on the planet. However, this qualification only lasted until 30 years later Kanchenjunga (8,586 meters above sea level) took over.
The first reconnoitre with a view to climbing Dhaulagiri was made in 1950 by a French expedition led by Maurice Herzog, who having failed in their attempt to find a route, decided to put the effort into the neighbouring Annapurna, the summit of which they reached on 3 June of the same year, thus achieving the first ascent of a mountain more than 8,000 m high.
In 1954, the first Argentine expedition to make an ascent of a Himalayan mountain reached Dhaulagiri, and, following the Pear Route, also known as the "Argentine route", managed to go above 8,000 meters. Tragically, the expedition leader, First Lieutenant Francisco Ibáñez, died in Kathmandu at the age of 28, having suffered from freezing in his feet at over 7,000 meters. The documentary Dhaulagiri 1954: Argentines in the Himalayas, tells the story of this expedition.
In 1959, an Austrian expedition led by Fritz Moravec explored the north-east ridge of the mountain with certain expectation, but the assent of Dhaulagiri had to wait until 13 May 1960, when an Austrian-Swiss expedition, this time led by Max Eiselin took up the previous year’s reconnoitring and put Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Ernst Forrer, Albin Schelbert, Nyima Dorji and Nawang Dorji on the summit.
This was also the first expedition to use the support of a plane, a Pilatus PC-6, which crashed during an approach and had to be abandoned on the mountain. Another landmark achieved by this team was to make Kurt Diemberger the only man, along with Hermann Buhl, to make to first ascents of a mountain of over 8,000 meters above sea level, for in 1957, Diemberger, along with Buhl, the victor of Nanga Parbat, had conquered Broad Peak for the first time.
Most of the later ascents of the mountain have been made by the route opened in 1960, which has become the normal route.
The name Dhaulagiri comes from the Sanskrit (Dhavala giri) and means "White Mountain". Following its discovery by the Western world in 1808, it was considered the highest peak in the world in the place of Chimborazo, in Ecuador, with its 6,300 meters above sea level, which was then considered the highest elevation on the planet. However, this qualification only lasted until 30 years later Kanchenjunga (8,586 meters above sea level) took over.
The first reconnoitre with a view to climbing Dhaulagiri was made in 1950 by a French expedition led by Maurice Herzog, who having failed in their attempt to find a route, decided to put the effort into the neighbouring Annapurna, the summit of which they reached on 3 June of the same year, thus achieving the first ascent of a mountain more than 8,000 m high.
In 1954, the first Argentine expedition to make an ascent of a Himalayan mountain reached Dhaulagiri, and, following the Pear Route, also known as the "Argentine route", managed to go above 8,000 meters. Tragically, the expedition leader, First Lieutenant Francisco Ibáñez, died in Kathmandu at the age of 28, having suffered from freezing in his feet at over 7,000 meters. The documentary Dhaulagiri 1954: Argentines in the Himalayas, tells the story of this expedition.
In 1959, an Austrian expedition led by Fritz Moravec explored the north-east ridge of the mountain with certain expectation, but the assent of Dhaulagiri had to wait until 13 May 1960, when an Austrian-Swiss expedition, this time led by Max Eiselin took up the previous year’s reconnoitring and put Kurt Diemberger, Peter Diener, Ernst Forrer, Albin Schelbert, Nyima Dorji and Nawang Dorji on the summit.
This was also the first expedition to use the support of a plane, a Pilatus PC-6, which crashed during an approach and had to be abandoned on the mountain. Another landmark achieved by this team was to make Kurt Diemberger the only man, along with Hermann Buhl, to make to first ascents of a mountain of over 8,000 meters above sea level, for in 1957, Diemberger, along with Buhl, the victor of Nanga Parbat, had conquered Broad Peak for the first time.
Most of the later ascents of the mountain have been made by the route opened in 1960, which has become the normal route.
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^Messages for Edurne
Me gusta mucho la montaña y tú eres un ejemplo de superación y buen hacer para todos nosotros...Cuando te he visto en el Festival de Picos, en León co...
mariaje
